The Overgrown Guide To
Planting Grass Seed

Are you at the right stage, finally, for planting grass seed? That presumes you have done all the necessary preparation. Don't miss a step and waste all the effort you have put into your lawn project. This is the most temperamental part of the process. Grass seed can be very particular about how it is treated. Read on for all the details you need to ensure a successful transition from bare soil to seed to green lawn.

What You Need Before You Start

Check this list as you plan your project, and prior to actually planting the grass seed, to help things go as easily as possible. Details for use will follow the list.

• Grass Seed. Select a variety appropriate to the location, and compatible with any existing grass. Check the package for application rates. It is better to have extra on hand rather than not enough, once you start planting the grass seed.
• Mulch. Use fine-screened compost or weed-free steer manure. One cubic foot will cover about 50 square feet at ¼” thick. Or use straw for very large areas. A bale may cover 500 - 1,000 sq. ft. depending on its size and density.
• Rake. A wide landscaper rake or a gardeners bow rake was necessary to prepare and level the soil. Use this or even a leaf rake to mix the seed into the top layer of soil. Large areas may require a drag, like a piece of chain link fence, behind a tractor.
• Lawn Roller. This was used in soil preparation to level the ground. Use it now to press the seed into the soil.
• Irrigation System. If a built-in system is to be used, check it first and make all repairs and adjustments prior to planting the grass seed.
• Hose, soft-spray hose nozzle and hose-end sprinkler. Use a quality sprinkler that will provide even coverage without puddles. (Even with a built in system, some areas may require extra water.)
• Stakes and String or survey marking tape. To restrict unnecessary activity in the seeded area during germination and early growth.
• Personal Items. Hat and/or sunscreen. Ice tea or lemonade. (No beer until finished!) Two or more supervisors. Just kidding!

Survey The Battle Field

Before you start the attack (planting the grass seed), take a look at the condition of the seed bed. This is likely just a cause for concern if you have been proceeding with this project in stages, rather than powering through from start to finish.

Has the soil crusted over since you finished the final leveling, raking, and rolling? A hard crust will break loose in chunks when you mix seed in with the soil. This can cause uneven results with the spreading and some seed will get buried too deep.

If the soil is crusted, try a light watering to soften the top layer. This works better with some soil types than others, but is the easiest solution. Otherwise you may have to rake again.

The soil can be moist, but not muddy. If rain or irrigating too much has left the soil so wet that mud sticks to your shoes, it is too wet for planting grass seed. You can not mix it well with the soil. It is better to wait.

Also, muddy soil will make it impossible to move around when planting grass seed without getting seed stuck to your shoes. It is better to wait.

Have weeds started to sprout? This can happen easily if it is a multi-weekend project. If you leave the weeds and go ahead with planting the grass seed, the weeds have a head-start.

You may be able to clear the area of new weeds easily with a hula-hoe (swivel head hoe). Then rake the debris off and make sure all is smooth. This will have you planting the grass seed right now.

If you need to spray the weeds to kill them, use a non-selective, glyphosate type killer (like Round-up or equivalent). You should wait one week after spraying before planting grass seed. The size of the weeds will determine if they need to still be removed before spreading the seed.

Are All Systems “GO”?

This project may be at the mercy of your schedule. Do you have the option of selecting one day or time period over another? If so, consider current weather conditions and predictions for the near future.

An extreme hot spell will challenge you to keep the soil and seed moist enough during the germination period. Remember, the seed cannot be allowed to dry out, or it will die.

Rainy conditions could be a blessing to keep the seed moist. But a hard rain or long duration of rain that causes puddles may redistribute the seed to the point of requiring re-seeding later.

In the early spring, rain may keep soil temperatures low. This, plus no sunshine, can slow germination. Extended moist conditions without sufficient warmth can cause seed to rot.

If conditions are good, then proceed.

Planting The Grass Seed, Finally Time To Sow!

Sowing the grass seed is probably the first part of your project that is actually enjoyable. Now you feel like you are on your way to having a wonderful lawn. This part is not hard work. However, it will have a major impact on the final result, so take care.

Planting grass seed can be done by hand, with a hand-held spreader, or wheeled spreaders, either a drop type or rotary/broadcast type. Tips for selecting and using spreaders will be supplied in a later article. The ultimate objective is to produce even distribution when planting grass seed.

Different grass types vary in size, and have different amounts of seed per pound. The seed container should display how many square feet to cover with each pound of seed. Effective coverage, producing a thick lawn, should be achieved by an application that leaves about 12 to 16 seeds per square inch.

Divide the amount of grass seed to be used into two large portions, with a little bit left over. Apply half of the grass seed, walking back and forth over the entire area. Then take the second portion, and walk back and forth in a pattern at right angles to your original path. This will produce better coverage than trying to get it evenly spread in one pass over attempt.