Free Plants and Cheap Plants
come to those who are willing
to 'dig a little deeper'!
Free plants! Does that get you stirred up like a bee during spring bloom? Do you salivate at the thought of possessing another precious prize specimen, at any price?
If so, you may need to be warned that you are entering dangerous territory. If you’d prefer to shop for plants on your lunch break rather than eat, you’re my kind of gardener. But, chances are, two big problems result from that ‘budding’ addiction. - Where do you find room for all the plants you desire?
- How do you afford or justify the cost of all the plants you covet?
I can help you with the second scenario, but you’re on your own with the space limitation, which is prone to get much worse as you read on and your gardening glands go hyperactive. Free plants? What’s the catch?
There isn’t one, other than letting yourself indulge in the activity you already love. I’m going to tell you first how I get cheap plants locally.
Then we’ll dig into the land of free plants and flowers. I’ll conclude with a few resources to help make this all happen. (No! Do not go directly to the bottom of the page! This is a process.) Who goes to the nursery department just to look, or just to buy one plant? If you rein yourself in, it’s either because of the expense, or you were forced to make a promise to your spouse who is tired of living in a jungle.
Now you might not be able to take in every offer of free trees, and plants will sometimes grow too big for the available space, but when it comes to free or cheap plants, most shapes and sizes are probably welcome. Hey, if they outgrow their usefulness, they can be replaced…again… and again… It’s a sweet problem! Confessions from the Nursery I tried to develop my own techniques for propagating free plants at an early age. As a young lad I planted peas and many other vegetables in my napkin at the dinner table. Then I would sneak away to find places to bury (hide) them. These early attempts were unsuccessful, but with guidance from my mother, I found that it was fun to grow things (in the garden), even if I didn’t like to eat them. Want more true confessions? I’m a plant rescuer. I go to nurseries on Mondays or Tuesdays when they clean up the mess from the weekend. You should try it.
The smaller department store nurseries are often best for this, like Wal-Mart, Target, and some drug store chains, even Lowes or HD, rather than the large full-scale nurseries. Many of them have clearance racks where distressed plants gasp their last breaths of carbon dioxide. I rescue them and nurture them back to health. The minimal cost, plus the redemptive value, makes it one of my favorite pastimes. The Secret To Making A Cheap Plant Cheaper (even turn it into a Free Plant)
These cheap garden plants are usually marked down a minimum of 50%, depending on the store’s policies. Policies always have exceptions, especially when perishable items are concerned. Ask for a discount, but be smart about it.
Don’t ask the cashier, as they are usually low on the totem pole and are not allowed to think. Better to ask someone working with the plants, and keep your eye open for a supervisor. Do not ask the cashier to call the supervisor to assist you. You will have made an enemy if you interrupt this overworked manager and ask for a handout. You want to make a friend.
So shop and keep your eyes open. Tell a garden associate that you like to improve your gardening skills by rescuing distressed plants and ask if they have specimens being thrown out.
You might get lucky and get a shopping cart full of mixed flowers and plants that got too dry and look pathetic. Water them right away and count your loot of absolutely free plants. Yes, it really happens that way! If you get a negative response on that, comment on their clearance rack. (This assumes you already saw something there that you actually want.) Ask if there is any chance to get an extra discount or to “get one thrown in” if you buy several. Do NOT say the word “Free!”
Free plants may be dancing through your mind, but you have to overcome their objection to giving things freely away -- it’s a business. They can ‘throw in’ something without a problem, just don’t verbalize “gimme free stuff!” “Ask & You Shall Receive” -- Why It Works When plants are tossed out, the store gets nothing. If you offer to buy several, they win and are willing to throw in part of what will be thrown out. (These guys are gardeners -- they don’t want to see a plant die!) It also looks better on their sales reports if they get something sold, even if they have to 'cheat' to do it.
Now you may be thinking, “I don’t want to buy several of anything.” So get the big picture. You want to set up a relationship, an ongoing source for future free plants. When you first encounter the supervisor, introduce yourself -- that‘s friendly. Don’t extend your hand for a shake unless they do first -- or you’ll look like a salesman. Make a short, friendly comment about the nursery (looks like they had a busy weekend… how much you like their selection… something positive, but truthful…).
DON’T get into small talk -- they are busy. Do say this: “I don’t want to hold you up, but let me ask you something. I like to improve my gardening skills on damaged or stressed plants. Do you ever have specimens that you are getting rid of that I can practice on?” You may get a favorable response, or get pushed aside. Timing is everything. It might work later, if not today. (Remember, not on a weekend!)
Don’t be annoying. If the employee says they can’t do that, mention the clearance rack. “Is it possible, if I buy a couple of marked down plants, that you could throw in an extra?“ If they say no, your next move depends on their attitude. Now it’s like a poker game or chess. If they seem to be “all business” and tell you NO, after which they see you go buy from the rack anyways, they won -- you have no future. Better to go into the store or out to the parking lot for a while and wait a bit if you intend to buy something that visit. If they were helpful and friendly, though unable to contribute to your free plant request right now, you might buy something to make a favorable impression. Come back next week and the week after and make yourself a familiar sight even if you don’t buy anything.
On these visits, simply ask if they have any “unadvertised specials on plants that look bad.” If they offer anything you don’t like (the plant or the price) just say it wouldn’t fit in. After a few friendly inquiries on subsequent visits, they will recognize you.
You want to be converted in their mind from “customer” to “friendly gardener”. Be gracious and develop a reputation for being fun to associate with, and you may find that they start setting aside some clearance plants in a shopping cart and letting you have first pick!… They might not be able to discount the price because of computer parameters, but again, that’s when the 2 or 3 or 4 for the price of one becomes a useful concept. Keep a tally -- how many free plants and how many cheap plants! Another Option For Free Plants, If You’re Too Shy For The Last One
Next, I want to introduce you to a couple more ideas for getting free plants, that cost you only your time. Not that any of us have an over-abundance of that, but what could be more desirable for a gardener than to have an excuse to fiddle around outside?
First, I’ll tell you how I love to buy one, get one or more free, from any garden store or nursery.
Then I’ll give you a good word on starting with the basics of gardening to propagate a plant paradise. You can grow your own plants, as many as you want.
Who wants to have just one of something? Who wants to pay for all you want? Here’s how you get the best for less! Free Plants: The Two-For-One Special Who doesn’t like a bargain? Anytime you can get two for the price of one, it’s hard to resist. For those of you who can’t wait, check out Direct Gardening and their One Cent Sale. DirectGardening.com - Quality plants at great prices! I love this place! (It’s a cooperative of nine well-established producers of nursery specimens of all types. You can sign up for each of their free nursery catalogs, and they will also inform you of seasonal specials. That's the best way to get the great deals before they're all gone.)
You’ll see a tab on their toolbar (1˘ Sale) that leads to a constantly changing selection of various cheap plants and flowers. This is often very timely for the season, so you can get some great buys on plants that fit any garden. I like to search out hidden opportunities locally, rather than wait for an advertised special. Whenever I buy potted plants, especially the starter six-packs or 4” pots, I comb the racks for selections that are doubled or tripled together in a single pot. This applies to annual flowers and vegetables as well as perennials and landscape plants.
The growers often put multiple seeds in a pot or ‘pony pak’ to ensure that at least one germinates. I want those. I separate them, young seedlings as well as bigger specimens, thus getting one or more free plants for every one I buy. Conventional wisdom says not to do this because you risk disturbing the root structure and might kill the plant. I say, “Live Dangerously!” I rarely lose any plants this way, but have never lost both of these “Siamese twins”. I might not do it with a $50 exotic specimen. (Yeah, I probably would.)
I have great success separating azaleas, yet every book says we should never disturb their tender roots. I like to think of a successful plant separation as the gardener’s equivalent of dismantling a bomb. Can life get any more exciting than this? How To Do It: Free Plants, Step-By-Step
If you want to attempt this risky challenge, here is my technique. I soak the plant roots thoroughly. It is best to place the pot into a bucket of water and keep the pot submerged until it stops sending up bubbles. This is more effective than top watering, since many plants at nurseries have been neglected or are getting root bound.
Partially dry potting soil, if it has peat moss in it, resists getting wet again. You need to force the water through the entire root mass. Dry roots will break too easily. If the soil seems extremely dry and/or the plant is obviously wilting or in pain, keep the pot in the water bucket for an hour or more before doing anything else. Let the pot drain completely, and wait a little while longer. Use this time to prepare, (or to meditate on your ingenuity for getting more free plants).
Where will you lay the plant once it is out of the pot?
Will the branches be in danger of breaking as you work on the roots?
I use an old burlap sack, or even some bunched up trash bags to form a cushion for resting the plant, especially if it is a larger size that needs support to avoid breaking branches. Look for a tool to use for pulling the roots apart. My favorite is something I got from an auto parts store, but never used for car repair. It looks like an ice pick, but one inch of the tip is bent at a right angle. It might be called a scribe or a clean-out gizmo. This is perfect for poking and pulling. You could use an ice pick, a skinny screwdriver or anything that is rather thin but strong. Gather your pots and potting soil as you don’t want to leave the roots exposed any longer than necessary once you begin. Plan to work in a shady spot to avoid having the sun dry out the roots. If you think you might get interrupted, keep that pail of water available. Better to drop the roots in this even if the soil washes off, than to let it dry out. Test to see if the plant will slide easily out of the pot by holding it upside down. Slap the sides of the pot first a few times to show it who’s the boss. If there are large roots coming out the drain holes, it is best to leave them alone at this point, if possible. Consider cutting through the bottom of the plastic pot with a utility knife or even your pruning shears. Better to sacrifice a cheap pot than a free plant! If the plant resists removal, poke a knife down along the edges like you would to release a cake from a pan. Then flip it over as you prepare to catch the plant in a way that will not damage the top foliage. Plants with tender succulent stems, like impatiens, will require you to grab the main stems carefully, right at the soil level. Small plants can probably be held in one hand while you work on the root mass. Look at the bottom first and evaluate how extensive is the root system. Younger plants may have just a few roots winding around. Carefully pull the roots of the plants free from the soil and let them dangle.
Older plants may have layers of roots on the bottom. This is more tedious, but start pulling them apart, trying to observe where the ends have traveled. Don’t freak out if you break some. (It’s not like cutting the wrong colored wire if you’re on the bomb squad!) Once you have the bottom roots disengaged, look at the roots around the sides. Are they tightly packed? If not, start loosening them from the soil to dangle.
If they are dense, just do the best you can to pull them free. The main objective is to unwind any that are wrapping all around the soil ball. You may need to alternate poking and loosening the sides and bottom as you follow the roots around. Next, look at how the two or three plants are situated next to each other. Start poking your tool into the root mass to loosen up the soil and see if it feels like it is dense with roots.
Grab each of the plant stems at the soil level and do a gentle test pull, to see if they start to release from each other. Some do, and some don’t. If they seem loose, gradually pull them apart. Watch the branches and watch the roots for entanglements. Maneuver them if possible to avoid breakage. If necessary, keep working your tool into the root pile and pull them free.
Again, some roots will break, but this is not open heart surgery. Just be as delicate as possible. If the root ball seems dense with roots, and they don’t want to budge as I pull, I don’t mess with it. Get a sharp knife. In my gardening kit, I keep an old steak knife and one with a long blade, both with a serrated edge. Use your best Ginzu knife if you must, this won’t hurt it.
Look at the best angle for cutting that will leave the most amount of roots on each plant. Try to stay as far from the stem as possible. Start at the top and slice down. That’s all it takes. You now have two or more plants with smaller root systems. In most cases they will do fine. Pot them in their new pots with a potting soil that has good drainage. Keep the soil moist to compensate for the missing roots, but don’t let it stay soggy. Vitamin B-1 is a common solution used for transplanting, and this can be helpful, but is not the best. I recommend using an additive like a root stimulator or “Super-Thrive”, because these typically have hormones and/or enzymes that really boost the plants ‘get-on-with-it’ mechanisms.
Mix these at the proper dilution (not stronger!) and use each time you water for the first couple of weeks. If the plants are wilting the first day, you can pull off some of the larger leaves to reduce the demand for moving water up the internal system. In fact, if the plants are larger enough to have substantial foliage, I trim off some of the older, larger leaves right away. Use your own judgment on this -- it depends on the type of plant -- but typically leave half the leaves (the newer ones) on the plant. Some plants may respond well to misting them occasionally. Tender plants that have mostly soft tissue may not be able to support themselves, especially if they were leaning on their partner. Use a sturdy stick or wire as needed, for temporary help. Keep them out of direct sun for at least a week, longer in hot temperatures. Be attentive until you see signs of growth -- it's not a free plant till you're home free! Too Much Work For Free Plants? Not Clear On The Concept?
Keep-it-simple gardener types may not like the sound of this. Buy-plant-water-enjoy may be the extent of your green thumb efforts. But I find it hard to be tolerant of 'lazy' gardeners when so much lonely vegetation is being wasted! (just kidding) You don’t know what you’re missing -- the intense satisfaction when one of your ‘patients’ shows new growth popping out! Do you dare let loose your ‘inner propagator’? I use these cheap plants as starters to grow several others that are all completely free. Plants rejected by others willingly come home with me, part of a vicious cycle. I grow more plants than I have room to keep, so I have to find new homes for them.
Free plants for me become cheap plants for others. (I make more than enough money to cover expenses, but sell better plants for less than retail.) It’s easy. It’s fun. It’s kind of crazy. Anyone can do it. Plant propagation is a fascinating aspect of gardening. Some of you know that experience by growing from seed your own vegetables and flowers. Anticipating, then discovering the emergence of new sprouts is always rewarding.
Those who don’t bother with that, always purchasing started plants from your garden center, suffer from one or more common ailments: impatience, too little time, failure syndrome, or too much money.
If you have never tried to propagate, would you hesitate if you knew a foolproof way to succeed, opening the door to free plant-topia? Discover the miracle! Doesn’t the idea of free plants stimulate your All-American independent spirit that thrives on the thought of getting something for nothing? It becomes even more tempting when you add the possibility of growing plants you can give as gifts or sell to friends, family, visiting dignitaries or even barter for health care!
Resources For Growing Your Own Free Plants Have you heard of Mike McGroarty, also known as 'Mike the Dumb Ole Dirt Farmer'?
Go and check out his articles for the complete details on all aspects of plant propagation. Here are a few of them: - How to Find the Propagation Technique that is Right for Your Plant
- Propagation by Division
- Propagation by Layering
- Propagating Softwood or Hardwood Cuttings
- Growing Plants from Seed
These are just the beginning of his expertise on this subject. Mike gives step-by-step guides as well as the important reasons for doing each part. He does such a good job at it that he has established a business venture teaching people how to set up and operate a backyard nursery. He instructs people with all ranges of experience how to grow free plants and how to get rid of them for a substantial profit. I mention this because when you go to his website just to read the gardening articles, it looks like you must sign up for the newsletter or the backyard growing program to get into the article base. That is not the case. His newsletter is short and concise and helpful, when the topic fits your needs. I find his tips accurate and trustworthy.)
On the first page, just click to continue. The second page lists all the articles on the left hand margin. Just keep scrolling down and see the wide variety of topics. Unfortunately there is no order by alphabet or topic, but watch your time, because you’ll want to keep reading and reading! Mike’s site is FreePlants.com and you’ll soon come to realize that this is not a trick. Growing your own plants makes sense. You can get starter cuttings from friends, neighbors, or buy a single specimen to start. So many people search the internet, hoping to get a steal of a deal, but end up with a disappointment that discourages their gardening spirit. When you order cheap plants from unknown sources, pay the shipping costs, and end up with something that doesn’t have a chance to survive, it’s not worth the trouble. Be frugal, but be smart. I’ll continue to add reputable sources to this article, but wanted to get it loaded right away, since spring has sprung. Grow more green! Give this concept a try, and you may find you get so caught up in the possibilities you’ll have free plants and flowers popping out of the garden beds all over your yard! Here's another connection to the Direct Gardening site mentioned earlier.
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